METHODS: Four skin biophysical parameters - transepidermal water loss (TEWL), melanin content, elasticity, and collagen intensity - were assessed on the cheek of the subjects (20-60 years). Demographic background, daily habits, and skincare product use were gauged through a survey. Only 197 from the 213 subjects recruited initially were used for analysis after the data were screened for normality.

RESULTS: The biophysical parameters were similar in different races, except a higher melanin content in Indian female individuals. Elasticity and collagen intensity reduced with age, while melanin content increased in the older age-groups. But no difference was observed in TEWL at different ages. Evaluating the influence of daily habits, we observed that exercise significantly lowered TEWL and increased melanin content, which may be associated with UV radiation exposure. Facial skincare products are popular among the female subjects (>85% users). Products with moisturizing, sunscreening, and other skincare functions (astringent, antiaging, and anti-wrinkle) were preferred by subjects of all ages. These product functions significantly improve skin elasticity and reduce melanin content in the young adults. While aged women recognized the importance of having an additional skin-lightening function in their skincare routine. Although the influence of individual skincare function on skin biophysical parameters was mostly positive, the alteration of these parameters varied at different ages.

OBJECTIVE: This study aims to identify and compare photoaging rat models exposed to UVA and UVB.

METHODS: This research method compared macroscopic (scoring degree of wrinkling) and microscopic (histology) signs and symptoms on skin samples of rat exposed to UVA and UVB for 4 weeks at a radiation dose of 840mJ/cm2.

RESULTS: The results of this study indicated that the degree of wrinkling was highest in rat skin exposed to UVB rays by 51% (p<0.05). UVB histological results showed that the epidermis layer (40 µm, p<0.05) was thickened and the dermis layer (283 µm, p<0.05) was thinned in the skin of mice exposed to UVB light. The UVB group, showed the density of collagen in the dermis with a mean value of 55% (p<0.05).

METHODS: The active compounds in cocoa pod extracts (CPE) were screened using liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (LC-MS). Fibroblast cells were used to determine the effective concentration of CPE to maintain the viability for at least 50% of the cells (EC50 ). The gel was tested by 12 panelists to determine the efficacy of CPE in gel form using Visioscan to reduce skin wrinkles and improve skin condition.

RESULTS: CPE was detected to contain malic acid, procyanidin B1, rosmarinic acid, procyanidin C1, apigenin, and ellagic acid, all of which may contribute to functional cosmetic properties of CPE. The EC50 value of cocoa pod extracts was used to calculate the amount of CPE to be incorporated into gel so that the formulated product could reach an effective concentration of extract while being nonintoxicant to the skin cell. The results showed that CPE is potential ingredient to reduce wrinkles. Skin wrinkles reduced at 6.38 ± 1.23% with the application of the CPE gel within 3 weeks and significantly improved further (12.39 ± 1.59%) after 5 weeks. The skin hydration increased (3.181 ± 1.06%) after 3 weeks of the CPE gel application.

PURPOSE: This study aimed to investigate the anti-aging potential of CC extracts and fractions, particularly their inhibition of collagenase, MMP-1 and MMP-3 activities in human dermal fibroblasts CCD-966SK, followed by isolation, identification and analysis of their bioactive constituents.

STUDY DESIGN AND METHODS: DPPH assay was firstly used to evaluate the antioxidant activity throughout the bioactivity-guided fractionation. Cell viability was determined using MTS assay. Collagenase activity was examined, while MMP-1 and MMP-3 expression were measured using qRT-PCR and western blotting. Then, chemical identification of pure compounds isolated from CC fractions was done by using ESIMS, 1H and 13C NMR spectroscopies. HPLC analyses were carried out for bioactive fractions to quantify the major components.

RESULTS: Throughout the antioxidant activity-guided fractionation, fractions CC-E2 and CC-E3 with antioxidant activity and no toxicity towards CCD-966SK cells were obtained from CC 75% ethanol partitioned layer (CC-E). Both fractions inhibited collagenase activity, MMP-1 and MMP-3 mRNA and protein expression, as well as NF-κB activation induced by TNF-α in CCD-966SK cells. 14 compounds, which mainly consists of flavonoids and their glycosides, were isolated. Quercitrin (14.79% w/w) and quercetin (11.20% w/w) were major compounds in CC-E2 and CC-E3, respectively, as quantified by HPLC. Interestingly, both fractions also inhibited the MMP-3 protein expression synergistically, compared with treatment alone.

OBJECTIVES: To develop a novel in vitro skin glycation model as a screening tool for topical formulations with antiglycation properties and to further characterize, at the molecular level, the glycation stress-driven skin ageing mechanism.

METHODS: The glycation model was developed using human reconstituted full-thickness skin; the presence of N(ε) -(carboxymethyl) lysine (CML) was used as evidence of the degree of glycation. Topical application of emulsion containing a well-known antiglycation compound (aminoguanidine) was used to verify the sensitivity and robustness of the model. Cytokine immunoassay, quantitative real-time polymerase chain reaction and histological analysis were further implemented to characterize the molecular mechanisms of skin ageing in the skin glycation model.

RESULTS: Transcriptomic and cytokine profiling analyses in the skin glycation model demonstrated multiple biological changes, including extracellular matrix catabolism, skin barrier function impairment, oxidative stress and subsequently the inflammatory response. Darkness and yellowness of skin tone observed in the in vitro skin glycation model correlated well with the degree of glycation stress.

METHODS: Palm kernel oil esters (PKOEs)-based nanoemulsions were loaded with P. urinaria extract using a spontaneous method and characterized with respect to particle size, zeta potential, and rheological properties. The release profile of the extract was evaluated using in vitro Franz diffusion cells from an artificial membrane and the antioxidant activity of the extract released was evaluated using the 2, 2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) method.

RESULTS: Formulation F12 consisted of wt/wt, 0.05% P. urinaria extract, 1% cetyl alcohol, 0.5% glyceryl monostearate, 12% PKOEs, and 27% Tween 80/Span 80 (9/1) with a hydrophilic lipophilic balance of 13.9, and a 59.5% phosphate buffer system at pH 7.4. Formulation F36 was comprised of 0.05% P. urinaria extract, 1% cetyl alcohol, 1% glyceryl monostearate, 14% PKOEs, 28% Tween 80/Span 80 (9/1) with a hydrophilic lipophilic balance of 13.9, and 56% phosphate buffer system at pH 7.4 with shear thinning and thixotropy. The droplet size of F12 and F36 was 30.74 nm and 35.71 nm, respectively, and their nanosizes were confirmed by transmission electron microscopy images. Thereafter, 51.30% and 51.02% of the loaded extract was released from F12 and F36 through an artificial cellulose membrane, scavenging 29.89% and 30.05% of DPPH radical activity, respectively.